The Return of the Sunday Lunch

RITUAL – Less formal today, it brings families together around the table. Three, sometimes four, generations now mingle in a renewed sense of solidarity.

Sunday, once known as the day of communion wafers and… roast chicken. While fewer people may attend church than in the past, the tradition of the Sunday lunch is making a big comeback. Scorned by the 1968 generation as part of their rebellion against family institutions and traditions, this gathering now draws a full house! Children and grandchildren happily join in to share a meal of lamb and potatoes.

This weekly gathering largely declined after 1968, as the family’s role was heavily questioned,” confirms sociologist Jean Viard. “But starting in the 1980s, and later with the introduction of the 35-hour workweek, family values reemerged in a more flexible form, making Sunday get-togethers enjoyable once again. Family traditions have become more tolerant. Today, the family feels like a comforting cocoon rather than a place rife with intergenerational conflict.”

Most French people hold the Sunday lunch in high regard, psychiatrist Serge Hefez adds. “It provides reassurance and connection. Regardless of its form, it remains a ritual that cements relationships. Families are less rigid; they impose themselves less on us, allowing us to choose how to engage with them.”

The formality of these gatherings has loosened over time. Long lunches stretching into the evening are rare, as are overly indulgent menus that leave guests feeling sluggish. Even though Sunday sees kitchens busier than the rest of the week, the ceremonial aspect has been simplified: fewer courses, fewer calories, and silverware – if it still exists – mostly stays in the cupboards.

There’s also less insistence on the frequency of these meals, which don’t necessarily happen every week. Amid economic challenges, Sunday lunches often become a setting for familial solidarity. Around the table, love and money intertwine. “Family is at the heart of emotional and financial support. Children or grandchildren often leave these lunches with a bit of cash in hand,” notes Jean Viard. “It’s also a moment when some young adults enjoy their only balanced meal of the week while visiting their parents.”

Grandparents, traditionally financial supporters, now also help with childcare. The number of generations gathered around the table has increased over the years. “We’ve gained in life expectancy, and now it’s possible for four generations to share this meal,” the sociologist observes. “It’s become very important for grandparents, and even great-grandparents, to see the younger generations.”

But not everything is rosy around the veal stew. “In large cities, where one in two families is single-parent or blended, the question of belonging arises – which family should we choose to have lunch with today?” Serge Hefez points out. And then there are those who avoid what they see as a “hypocritical gathering,” carefully sidestepping risky topics and concluding the meal with either hugs or heated arguments over dessert.

Testimonies:

“Rediscovering the Joy of Sharing”
Françoise, 66, Clamart (Hauts-de-Seine)
“Sunday has always been a special day for me. As a child in a Christian family, it was always the same ritual: dressing up in our tartan dresses, attending mass, and buying cakes on the way home. My father, an architect, was often traveling, so Sunday lunch was often the only meal we shared together. Sometimes we would visit my grandparents in Normandy, where an entire dining room was dedicated to Sunday lunches. They dressed up, brought out special dinnerware, and served excellent wine!

Since my two daughters moved out, they happily come back some Sundays, asking me to cook dishes from their childhood, like roast beef and mashed potatoes, to relive the joy of sharing something as a family. And now that my sons-in-law, both big food lovers, join in, I enjoy challenging myself to surprise them every time!”

“On the Menu: No Politics or Religion”

Lisa, 42, Marseille (Bouches-du-Rhône)
“I have wonderful memories of these gatherings. The whole family, from both Dordogne and Marseille, would come together. There would sometimes be soup, two appetizers, a duck dish with potatoes and mushrooms, cheese, and dessert! There were about fifteen of us, and the atmosphere was lively – my family is traditional but also a bit artistic, with some breaking into song by the end of the meal.

We were strictly forbidden from discussing politics, religion, or money to prevent heated debates! The lunch always ended with a review of family photo albums. I’m very lucky to have known my four grandparents, who shared family and historical stories with us – about the wars and so much more. I would question my grandmothers endlessly during these meals. They shared our roots, and those moments shaped my sense of duty to preserve our history, which I now write about on my blog, lisagiraudtaylor.blogspot.com.”

“A Time for Conversations”

Laura, 27, Paris
“Sunday family lunches are good memories for me. Everyone was relaxed. In a family of believers, my two brothers and I would sometimes attend mass in the morning. When we returned, our parents would have roasted chicken or something else prepared.

After the meal, the adults would talk while we kids went off to play. Around 4 p.m., we’d gather again for hot chocolate in front of the TV. Sundays were a day to pause, a time when we could reflect on the past week. It was almost sacred to create, at least once a week, a moment to share food together.

Now that I live with housemates, I’ve continued the tradition with a version of Sunday brunch. It’s a family-like gathering with my friends, though we don’t do it every Sunday. It’s almost a cooking competition because each of us prepares a dish from our home region!”